Difference between revisions of "Prusa Mendel Documentation"

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* 100K Thermistors (extruder an heated bed)
* 100K Thermistors (extruder an heated bed)

For FW reference on steps per axis: (80, 80, 2560, 666.67) {X, Y, Z, E}, this is also assuming 1/16th microstepping.
For FW reference on steps per axis: (80, 80, 2560, 855) {X, Y, Z, E}, this is also assuming 1/16th microstepping and 9/47 gears. Old extruder used 666.67steps/mm.

=To Do=
=To Do=

Revision as of 13:06, 26 April 2013

More detailed documentation on the newly built Prusa Mendel (iteration 2). A PC has been dedicated to run it, below you will find the toolchain used to run it and other details that you may find useful.


CAD/Thingiverse -> Netfabb -> STL -> Slic3r -> Pronterface -> PRINT!

See operation section for a tutorial.

FreeCAD (free, open source) and SolidWorks (expensive, some extra features) offer intuitive sketch and constraint based modeling.
OpenSCAD uses programming code to describe 3D models.
And in case you don't want to model anything and simply want to print stuff, go to Thingiverse.
software for checking the "3D printability" of the model you created. Go to Netfabb and download the Studio Basic option. You can also simply use their cloud offering and have a repaired model emailed back to you.
if your model has issues, run the repair function with default settings and see if that remedies the issues. The repair function can be used by clicking the "first aid" symbol found at the far right on the tool bar.
current format for 3D printing (AMF is coming around the corner).
at this point, your file should be patched up and ready to print.
software for creating 3d printing toolpaths
precompiled binaries can be had from or be built built from github.
use the profiles already generated for best results.
GUI for controlling the Prusa.
where you will connect to the printer, home, warm up and send print jobs from.
can be built from github or download precompiled binaries for Windows/Mac here.
preview G-Code generated by Slic3r.
File is good to go, toolpaths are generated, time to let the robot do what it does best, PRINT!


  • PLA - Polylactic Acid
Extremely ecologically friendly, made from corn starch, smells like waffles/syrup while printing.
Needs a fan for parts with overhang/bridging.
Low operating temperature (160C-200C).
  • ABS

Extra Maintenance


  • Only grease with PTFE SuperLube, kept at HacDC next to printer.
  • Grease smooth rods and Z-Axis threaded rod if axes show signs of binding.
  • Tighten timing belts if not taunt.
  • Floss the hobbed bolt in the extruder.
  • Replace linear bearings if they are grinding, slipping laterally, or otherwise ruined.

Replacing filament/changing spools

  1. Turn on the printer, open pronterface, and connect to the printer.
  2. If there is filament sticking out of the top of the extruder, you'll need to remove it.
  3. Set the hotend temperature (175-185 degrees Celsius for PLA)
  4. When extruder is warmed up, raise the extruder (+z axis) so it's not touching the bed.
  5. Click the reverse button while gently pulling upwards on the filament you wish to remove.
  6. Continue gently pulling and pressing reverse until the remaining filament is drawn out from the top of the extruder housing.
  7. Once the filament has been removed, replace the spool.
  8. Feed the new filament into the appropriate hole in the extruder housing.
  9. Gently press down on the filament while clicking "extrude" in pronterface. The extruder should grab the filament as you feed it.
  10. Repeat the previous step until you see the new material being extruded from the tip.
  11. Sometimes it may be necessary to loosen the spring loaded screws on the extruder, and manually unload/load the extruder.


  • Time estimate in pronterface's bottom bar is wildly inaccurate. The console printout when a gcode file is loaded will be about 75% accurate.
  • Some problems may be ambient temperature related. When the room is 52F (11C), plastic curling, extruder jams, and Z-axis endstop malfunction are more likely. Placing a space heater on medium heat (~750W) at least four feet from the RepRap helps. Usual concerns about space heaters apply, be safe.
  • Always swing fans in during a print. They engage automatically as appropriate.
  • Bare glass bed is best for quality. Paper tape on glass is generally more convenient. Bare polycarbonate provides extremely strong adhesion, too strong above 45C.

Slic3r Settings

Print Settings


High speed, low plastic consumption, lightweight part.


Maximizes quality and accuracy. Used for Prusa Mendel Replication.


Ultra strong parts.


75micron layer height, for parts with smaller features.


Specialized. Print layers directly on PCB heater to level the bed.



Optimized for bare glass bed, solid parts, and fast printing. Decrease bed temperature to 45C for bare polycarbonate bed. Decreasing extrusion temperature to 167C may improve bridging but requires slowing down print speed, reduces quality, and weakens printout.

Printer Settings

Leave at "HacDC" unless you feel they need debugging.


Entire software load used on dedicated laptop available at github. With these files, one can use their own computer to control the reprap.


digifab Constructed and donated working PrusaMendel Reprap.
juri Consultation on maintenance and multiple emergency repairs.
nully Consultation on maintenance and multiple emergency repairs.
  • Several HacDC members for initial capital.
  • HacDC members for all Project Awesome funds.
  • Others.

Technical Specs

This Prusa is fitted with the following:

  • Melzi - loaded with the latest Marlin firmware (as of 9/1/2012)
  • 12V 30A PSU
  • Makergear 0.35mm for 3mm filament hot end
  • LM8UUs
  • GT2 (2mm) belting and pulleys (5mm bore, 20 tooth)
  • 100K Thermistors (extruder an heated bed)

For FW reference on steps per axis: (80, 80, 2560, 855) {X, Y, Z, E}, this is also assuming 1/16th microstepping and 9/47 gears. Old extruder used 666.67steps/mm.

To Do

  • Tune trimpots on motor drivers
  • More Cable Management (Spiral wrap loose wires and ziptie down)
  • Print spare parts.
  • Experiment further with extrusion width settings, particularly perimeter widths.

Known Bugs

  • Model holes will print the wrong size. The proper way to manage this is by keeping about 0.25mm per wall or 0.5mm diameter clearance in CAD models.

Additional Resources